Unravelling The Love Affair Between Dressmakers and the Zadie Jumpsuit Pattern by Paper Theory Patterns
Today, we're going to chat about a pattern that's been making quite a stir in the dressmaking world - the Paper Theory Patterns Zadie Jumpsuit. If you've been living under a rock and haven't heard of it, don't worry, Fabrics Galore is here to fill you in including all the top tips from Zadie Jumpsuit makers in the FG Community.
What is it and why is it so popular?
So, what's all the fuss about? Well, put simply, this jumpsuit is the bee's knees. It comes with options for almost sleeveless off the shoulder cap sleeves or ¾ sleeves. The wrap style is as flattering as can be, and there are no pesky buttons or zips to fiddle with - just a simple tie.
The wide leg is cropped above the ankle for a bit of cheeky sass, and the deep slant pockets on the front are perfect for stashing your lippy or purse. There are small waist pleats on the front and back, and the neck edge is finished with bias binding. The pattern comes in sizes 6-10 and 16-28, but if you're between sizes, there’s no need to worry as you can adapt up or down as needed.
Its popularity is also due to the multitude of pattern options and a handy guide with step-by-step instructions, perfect for a beginner. In fact, many in the Fabrics Galore community have made multiple Zadie jumpsuits, with some creating as many as 18 versions. Wow, that’s a lot of Zadie love! It’s not unusual for frequent makers often to have three to five Zadies in their wardrobes and several in the FG gang mentioned hacking the pattern to make dresses or tops.
What is the best fabric for the Zadie jumpsuit?
As for the fabric, you'll want to go for woven medium-weight cottons and linens or linen mixes. If you're after a nice drape, viscose or viscose twill is your friend. Heavier fabrics such as cotton drill, corduroy or lightweight denim also work a treat. In fact, whatever fabric people have chosen, the Zadie Jumpsuit always looks fantastic which is testament to its versatility and flattering fit.
Linen seems to be the most popular choice as the natural feel and drape suit the relaxed jumpsuit look. We don’t recommend a stretchy knit fabric as this might make the bias binding on the neckline a bit tricky.
In a plain linen, a bold print, or a subtle floral you can create any look you want from casual holiday mode to a special occasion outfit dressed up with heels and jewellery. We think it would look gorgeous in our Moving Blocks viscose twill or our denim blue washed linen handle.
Popular Fabric Choices for the Zadie Jumpsuit from the FG community
- Linen and viscose/linen blends for a balance of structure and drape.
- Viscose for its fluidity and drape.
- Denim and chambray for more casual, sturdy options.
- Cotton and cotton blends for comfort and breathability.
- Tencel and Tencel blends for drape and sustainability.
- African wax print and Ankara for vibrant, bold designs.
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Less Successful Fabrics:
- Lightweight fabrics like cotton lawn or viscose challis, which may be too delicate or lack the structure needed for this pattern.
- Anything too heavy - like a soft furnishing velvets can make the pleats hard work.
How much fabric will you need?
When it comes to fabric quantity, for 150cm width fabric, you'll need between 2.25 metres and 3.56 metres depending on size and sleeve option. For 115cm width, you'll need between 2.75 metres and 4.40 metres.
What sewing skills are needed?
In terms of sewing skills, you'll need to know your way around bias binding and how to make slant trouser pockets. Other than that, it's just your standard stitching and hemming techniques.
Feedback from the FG Community
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Variations: Versions of Zadie People Have Made
- Full-length and cropped jumpsuits.
- Shorts versions for summer wear.
- Sleeved and sleeveless versions, often adjusted for seasonal preferences.
- Dress versions hacked from the original jumpsuit pattern.
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Adjustments and Customisations:
- Common alterations include sizing down by one or two sizes, reducing crotch length, lengthening legs, and modifying neckline depth.
- Some sewists have adjusted the pattern to add darts, change pleats to darts, or taper the legs.
Zadie Jumpsuit hacks
- This pattern is so versatile that you can adapt it to make a wrap dress, a playsuit or even a wrap top and trousers,
Top Tips for Sewing the Zadie Jumpsuit
- Fit Adjustments:
- Many sewists recommended to size down at least one size for a better fit.
- Adjust crotch depth, especially for shorter individuals.
- Consider the fabric's stretch and drape when choosing size and making adjustments.
- Don't forget to lengthen or shorten according to your height and desired ankle length.
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Construction Tips:
- Be mindful of seam allowances and accuracy in cutting to ensure a good fit.
- Use a different method for sewing bias binding, such as sewing it quilt-style to avoid issues with delicate fabrics.
- Make sure to measure and adjust based on finished garment size, not just body measurements.
- Ease of Sewing:
- The pattern is generally considered easy to sew, with no zippers or buttons, making it beginner friendly.
- The binding can be tricky, especially with fabrics prone to fraying, but with practice, it gives a professional finish.
- Wear and Styling:
- Zadie jumpsuits are praised for their comfort and versatility, suitable for casual wear, travel, work, and special occasions.
- Fabrics with good drape tend to be more flattering and comfortable.
- Adjustments for fit can make the jumpsuit more flattering, ensuring comfort and confidence while wearing.
Overall, the Zadie Jumpsuit pattern by Paper Theory is beloved by many sewists for its versatility, ease of construction, and stylish results. With careful fabric choice and thoughtful adjustments, it can suit a wide range of body types and occasions.
Fabrics Galore Gang Zadie Makes
Zadie Jumpsuit by @sj_Makes in our 100% cotton gingham
If you're after some inspiration, check out the #zadiejumpsuit on Insta. There's a cracking version by @sj_Makes in our 100% cotton gingham that's worth a look.
We hope we have inspired you to grab your scissors, dust off your sewing machine and give the Zadie Jumpsuit a whirl. Don’t forget to browse our website for some gorgeous dressmaking fabrics to make your own version and be sure to tag us @fabricsgalorelondon to share your makes.
