Are you new to sewing and eager to explore the world of wool fabric? Wool is an incredibly versatile and natural material, perfect for creating cosy garments that are both stylish and durable. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about sewing with wool, from understanding different types of wool fabrics to mastering essential techniques.
Understanding Wool Fabric: Types and Characteristics
Woollen vs. Worsted Wool: What’s the Difference?
Wool fabrics are broadly categorised into woollen and worsted types. Understanding the difference between these two is key to choosing the right fabric for your project:
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Woollen Fabric: Made from shorter fibres, woollen fabrics have a fuzzier texture. Common examples include tweeds, coatings, washable wool, and flannel. These are great for outerwear like coats and jackets.
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Worsted Wool: This type uses longer fibres, resulting in a smoother finish. Worsted gabardine and suitings are prime examples, ideal for more structured garments like suits and trousers.
Other Types of Wool Fabric
Fabrics Galore Cream Boiled Wool
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Boiled Wool: Created by felting knit wool fabric in hot water, boiled wool is thick, warm, and perfect for coats and jackets.
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Wool Blends: Blending wool with other fibres, such as cotton, can enhance the fabric’s properties. Wool blends often combine the best of both worlds, offering warmth, breathability, and additional strength.
Why Wool is a Fantastic Choice for Sewing
Wool is not just another fabric; it’s a natural, eco-friendly material with numerous benefits:
- Breathability: Wool is highly breathable, helping to regulate body temperature by transferring heat and moisture.
- Insulation: Wool keeps you warm in winter and cool in summer, making it an excellent year-round fabric.
- Fire Retardant & Water Repellent: Naturally resistant to fire and water, wool is also stain-resistant and hard-wearing.
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Eco-Friendly: Wool is biodegradable and requires no chemicals to produce, making it a sustainable choice for environmentally conscious sewists. Read our blog on how wool is a sustainable fabric.
Preparing Wool Fabric Before Sewing
Before you start sewing, it’s crucial to prepare your wool fabric to prevent shrinking and distortion:
- Pre-Washing: If the manufacturer recommends, pre-wash the fabric on a wool setting at a cool temperature (no more than 30°C).
- Steam Ironing: Alternatively, use a steam iron for pre-shrinking. Be cautious, as steam can reshape wool. Use a wooden clapper to set the shape after steaming.
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Dry Cleaning: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions if dry cleaning is suggested.
Pattern Placement on Wool Fabric
When working with wool, proper pattern placement is essential:
- Working with Nap: If your wool has a nap (a directional texture), ensure all pattern pieces are placed in the same direction.
- Handling Patterns: For patterned wool, check the direction and repeat of the pattern, placing pieces accordingly.
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Use tailor’s chalk or tailor’s tacks for marking patterns. If chalk rubs off, tailor’s tacks can be a reliable alternative.
Essential Tools for Sewing with Wool
To achieve the best results with wool, having the right tools is vital:
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Cutting Tools: Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter for precise cuts. Cutting in a single layer is recommended for accuracy.
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Pins & Clips: Use smooth, sharp pins or fabric clips, especially for thicker wools.
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Needles: Choose needles suited for wool, like ballpoint needles for knits and higher-sized needles (up to 110/18) for heavyweight wools. Lighter wools can be sewn with 70/10 or 80/12 needles.
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Thread: opt for strong threads like polyester or silk.
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Sewing Machine Settings: Test on fabric scraps to adjust settings. For thicker wools, a longer stitch length (up to 3.5mm) and increased thread tension may be necessary. Consider using a walking foot for better control.
How to Sew Seams and Hems on Wool
Mastering seam and hem techniques is key to creating polished wool garments:
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Seams: Reduce bulk by using a hump jumper and avoid French seams. For 100% wool, seam finishing might not be necessary as wool doesn’t fray, but wool blends may require pinking, serging, or zigzagging.
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Hems: Use single fold hems with a serged edge and a catch stitch for an invisible finish. For thicker wools, consider bias-faced or bound hems.
Lining Wool Garments
Lining your wool garment can enhance comfort and durability:
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Lining Fabric: Choose lining fabrics that can be cleaned the same as the wool you are using so if the wool needs dry cleaning use something that needs the same as a lining. Not all wools require lining, but scratchier varieties might benefit from it.
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Interfacing: Use mid-weight sew-in interfacing for collars and pockets. Avoid fusible interfacing, as it may not hold up well in dry cleaning.
Caring for Wool Garments
Proper care will extend the life of your wool garments:
- Avoid High Heat: When washing or ironing, always use low heat and a pressing cloth as a barrier.
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Storage: Store finished garments on padded hangers in breathable hanging bags. Cedar wood blocks and lavender bags (a great way to use up scraps) can help prevent moth damage.
Beginner-Friendly Wool Sewing Patterns
Starting with the right pattern makes a big difference:
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Boiled Wool Projects: Begin with boiled wool, which doesn’t require lining and can have raw edges. Try the Tessuti Patterns Berlin Jacket—a simple, collarless jacket with patch pockets, perfect for beginners.
Tessuti Patterns Berlin Jacket
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Small Projects: For a quick and easy make, try the free downloadable pattern for Simple Felted Wool Mittens by Purl Soho.
Simple Felted Wool Mittens by Purl Soho.
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Versatile Patterns: The Tessuti Fabrics Amara Vest pattern is another great option, as it is a quick make and is suitable for both boiled and woven wool.
Sewing with wool fabric is a rewarding experience, especially when you’re equipped with the right knowledge and tools. Whether you’re making a cosy winter coat or a stylish vest, this guide will help you achieve beautiful, professional results. Please call us on 0207 738 9589 for friendly advice on which wools are suitable for your sewing projects.
