Today, we're going to discuss one of the more challenging topics for dressmakers - how to sew with denim fabric. Denim is a versatile and durable material that can be used to create a wide range of garments. However, it can also be a little tricky to work with if you're not familiar with the right techniques. But don't worry, by the end of this blog, you'll be well-equipped to handle denim like a pro.
Understanding Denim Fabric
Before we dive into the sewing techniques, let's first understand denim fabric. Denim is a sturdy, yarn-dyed, woven fabric that is traditionally made from cotton. The signature look of denim is created by dyeing the warp yarn (often indigo) and leaving the weft undyed. Denim also has a twill weave which is why it is such a sturdy cloth and is so popular for everyday wear.
It comes in various weights (lightweight, medium weight or heavyweight) and finishes (such as stonewashed), which makes it a versatile choice for dressmakers. Over 24 different types of denim have been identified, but one of the key differences you need to know before sewing, is whether it is a 100% cotton denim or whether it is a stretch denim with elastane. This will affect how you sew with it.
Fabrics Galore Stretch Denim Fabric
What weight denim should I use?
You probably want to use a lightweight denim for a dress, summer jeans, skirt and especially for a shirt as it will have the most flexibility and will drape better than a heavyweight denim.
Medium weight denim is best for jumpsuits and jeans with a bit more structure and finally, heavyweight denim would be reserved for winter jeans, jackets and bags.
Regardless of the weight, a stretch denim will ensure that snug fit, which we all hope for in a pair of jeans.
Prepping Your Denim for Sewing
Denim can shrink when washed, which could lead to your finished garment fitting poorly. So, pre-wash, washing it how you intend to after you have finished the garment and always separately from other garments as new denim often bleeds. Ideally line dry denim to avoid shrinkage especially if you are working with stretch denim. Finally, iron once dry using a high temperature steam setting.
Tools and Materials Needed for Sewing with Denim
When it comes to sewing with denim, having the right tools and materials can make a world of difference. These are the essentials:
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Sharp scissors or a rotary cutter are needed to cut denim.
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A coloured chalk pencil or iron-off pen for marking the denim.
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A denim needle is essential to penetrate the thick fabric without breaking.
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A hump jumper (not a typo…) levels the presser foot so that the fabric feeds through the machine smoothly and avoids missing or uneven stitches.
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If you are sewing by hand, a thimble will protect your fingers.
- Polyester thread is stronger than cotton thread and is better suited to denim projects
Sewing Techniques for Denim
Now we're getting to the exciting part - the actual sewing. Denim, with its unique thickness and texture, may seem intimidating at first, but with a few helpful techniques and a bit of practice, (maybe with an old pair of jeans). you'll be sewing it like a pro in no time.
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Firstly, remember to always use a denim needle. These are specially designed to penetrate thick fabrics without breaking.
- Secondly, consider using a longer stitch length. Denim is a heavy fabric, and a longer stitch will hold better and look more professional.
- It helps to draw on your fly line with chalk or iron off pen before top stitching.
- Only use top stitching thread on the top and normal thread in the bobbin
- When sewing over particularly thick areas, such as seams, it can help to use a tool like a hump jumper. This helps to keep your presser foot level, which makes the feeding of the fabric smoother.
- If you're sewing denim by hand, a thimble will be your best friend. It will help you push the needle through the fabric and protect your fingers.
Finishing Techniques for Denim
The finishing touches can really elevate your denim garment. Due to its thickness, denim requires a different approach than lighter weight fabrics. A common method is the double-fold hem, which involves folding the fabric edge twice and then stitching it down. But you will need to allow for a wide hem to avoid too much bulk. The double fold hem not only gives a clean finish but also adds strength to the hem.
Next up is topstitching. This is a hallmark of denim garments, especially jeans, and serves both a functional and decorative purpose. Topstitching is done with a thicker thread and is often in a contrasting colour, like the classic gold on blue denim. It helps reinforce seams and gives the garment a professional, polished look.
Denim Patterns
There are so many garments you can make from denim including dresses, skirts, jeans and jackets. We have also seen denim used in quilting and for bag making.
A denim dress is always a favourite and we have featured the best denim dress patterns in another blog.
We also recommend giving the Xanthe Skirt Pattern by Sew Over It a try. For a traditional pair of jeans, try the Anna Allen Helene Selvedge Jeans Pattern in either our red or pink selvedge denim.
Denim Advice from the Team at our Fabric Shop in London
Sewing with denim doesn't have to be daunting. With the right knowledge, tools, and techniques, you can create beautiful and durable denim garments. We hope this blog has been helpful and has inspired you to start your next denim project. Please call our friendly team at our fabric shop in London on 020 7738 9589 for advice on which denim to buy for your particular project.
