How to Choose the Correct Sewing Machine Needle

When embarking on any sewing project, choosing the right sewing machine needle is as crucial as selecting your fabric or thread. The right needle ensures smooth stitching, prevents damage to your fabric, and keeps your sewing machine running at its best. This guide will help you understand the ins and outs of sewing machine needles and ensure your projects are successful from the very first stitch.

 

 

Dangers of Using the Wrong Needle

Using the wrong needle for your project can lead to a host of problems. Common issues include:

• Snagging or tearing fabric: A needle that’s too thick or inappropriate for the fabric type can pull threads or puncture delicate materials.
• Skipping stitches: This happens when the needle fails to form a proper stitch loop, leading to inconsistent seams.
• Breaking needles: The wrong size or type of needle may bend or break, posing a safety risk.
• Damaging your sewing machine: Prolonged use of unsuitable needles can cause wear and tear on your machine’s mechanisms.

 

Different Needles for Different Projects

Your choice of needle should depend on the type of fabric, the sewing machine you’re using, and the nature of your project. Here’s an overview of how these factors come into play:

• Fabric: Lightweight fabrics like chiffon need a sharp fine needle, heavier fabrics like denim require a sturdier needle, while knits need a blunter needle.
• Sewing machine: Some machines may require specific needle brands or sizes for optimal performance.
• Project type: Whether you’re quilting, stitching stretch fabric, or embellishing with metallic threads, there’s a correct needle ideal for the job. (Although these projects may also require a different machine foot, but that is another blog!)
  
  

 

Understanding Sewing Machine Needle Size Numbers

Needles are classified using two numbers, such as 75/11. The first number is the European size, and the second is the American size. These numbers indicate the thickness of the needle, with smaller numbers being finer needles. Here's a handy table to illustrate:

Needle Size (EU/US)	Fabric Type
60/8	Very fine fabrics (silk, organza)
70/10	Lightweight fabrics (cotton lawn, lace)
80/12	Medium-weight fabrics (cotton poplin, seersucker, lightweight wools, linen)
90/14	Heavy fabrics (heavy wools, tweed, denim, canvas)
100/16	Extra-heavy fabrics (leather, suede)

 

Changing and Fitting a New Needle

How Often Should I Change a Needle?

A good rule of thumb is to replace your needle after every 8-10 hours of sewing, or at the start of a new project. Dull or bent needles can lead to skipped stitches and fabric damage.

 

Steps to Change a Needle

1. Turn off your sewing machine for safety.
2. Loosen the needle clamp screw using a small screwdriver.
3. Remove the old needle, ensuring you discard it safely.
4. Insert the new needle with the flat side facing the correct direction (usually towards the back).
5. Tighten the needle clamp screw securely.
   
   

 

FAQs About Sewing Machine Needles

Do all sewing machine needles fit all sewing machines?

Not all needles are universal. While most home sewing machines use needles with a flat shank, some machines (especially older or industrial models) may require specialised needles. Always check your machine’s manual.

Are different needles suited to different stitches?

Yes! For example, a stretch needle works best for zigzag stitches on elastic fabrics, while a topstitch needle is ideal for decorative stitches using thicker threads.

How to Look After Your Needles

• Store needles in their original packaging to avoid mixing sizes and types.
• Replace dull or bent needles promptly.
• Use a needle threader to avoid unnecessary wear on the eye.

 

Best Tutorials on Changing a Sewing Machine Needle

Changing a needle can be daunting if you haven’t done it before, but many tutorials simplify the process. We recommend:

1. How to Change Needle on Sewing Machine by Made to Sew
2. Step-by-step illustrated guide at The Thrifty Stitcher

 

 

Guide to the Different Types of Sewing Machine Needles

Types of Needles and What They’re Good For

• Universal Needles: Great for general-purpose sewing on woven fabrics. The go-to needle for most projects, suitable for light to medium-weight fabrics.
  
  
• Ballpoint Needles: Designed for stretch fabrics. Their rounded tip slides between fibres, making them perfect for knits and jersey fabrics.
  
  
• Stretch Needles: Ideal for elastic materials, reducing skipped stitches. Best for stretchy fabrics like lycra and spandex. 
  
  
• Sharp Needles: Perfect for fine, densely woven fabrics. For precision sewing on fine fabrics like silk, microfibre, or taffeta.
  
  
• Quilting Needles: Specifically for piecing and quilting multiple fabric layers. Designed for sewing through multiple layers without creating puckers.
  
  
• Jeans/Denim Needles: Strong and sharp, designed for heavy-duty fabrics. Robust needles for thick materials like denim, canvas, and twill.
  
  
• Leather Needles: Feature a cutting tip for sewing leather and faux leather. Specially shaped for cutting through leather and vinyl.
  
  
• Metallic Needles: Designed for metallic threads to prevent shredding. Prevent fraying and breaking of metallic and decorative threads.
  
  
• Topstitch Needles: Larger eye and groove for thicker threads. Create bold, visible stitches with thicker threads.
  
  
• Twin and Triple Needles: For decorative double-stitched hems. Produce parallel rows of stitching, ideal for hems and decorative work.
  
  
• Wing Needles: Add decorative holes to heirloom sewing projects.
  

Choosing Sewing Machine Needles at Fabrics Galore

 

At Fabrics Galore, we stock a wide range of needles suitable for most sewing projects including Universal needles for light, medium and heavyweight fabrics, Sharps Assortment needles and Ball Point Needles. For your convenience and to make sure you have everything you need before you start sewing, you can add the appropriate needles as well as a matching thread to your basket when buying your fabric online.

 

Choosing the right sewing machine needle may seem daunting, but with this guide, you’ll be well on your way to flawless stitching. Remember, at Fabrics Galore, we’re here to help you find everything you need for your sewing success so please don’t hesitate to call or email us if you are unsure which needles to buy.